Walking to Santiago has become immensely popular over the past few decades, aided by a lot of books and the Martin Sheen film, The Way. Most of these tell of packed hostels, many companions, and a real sense of camaraderie: as she says, ‘Normally, over 300,000 people walk all or part of this ancient, 500-mile pilgrimage every year.’ For Mary, the experience was very different: ‘I had most of it to myself.’